Even if you've hacked about with a SharePoint master page to remove all the SharePoint chrome (including the edit button and suchlike) there are URL hacks you can use to get the page back into edit mode:
pageurl?ToolPaneView=2(There's a few more like this, see Sharepoint Tweaks... )
...as well as the hack to get a page into the Web Part Maintanance page:
pageurl?contents=1
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